Discontinued OEM / Factory Stripes, Logos and Decals.

 Custom Fabrication for Toyota Trucks and 4Runners. 

 Motorcycle/Auto painting, decals, logos and pinstriping.

Check out my 93 4Runner Project build.

2009 GMC Sierra Work Truck

    Yes hard to believe after driving my Isuzu pick up for 20 years and 350,000 miles I finally bought a big boy truck. I've been rolling the idea around in my head for a few years now and finally found a great deal on a new 2009 GMC from the guys over at Royal Cadillac, GMC and Buick in Tucson. I've serviced their dealership with stripes and accessories for over twenty years and have purchased several family vehicles as well as the Isuzu I retired. I was at their store striping a Cadillac for them when I saw a 2009 Sierra Extra Cab, Long Bed with 5.3l V8 and tow package marked down almost $5000. So I thought I'd ask about just for kicks. Much to my surprise they had a second incentive on it because they had recently took over the GMC line. This knocked $8500 off the MSRP. A deal too good to pass up, especially since I was already contemplating the idea of needing a new vehicle.

    Since it was a Work Truck model it didn't have all the bells and whistles that the higher models have. However, the few things that I need or want are easy to add on, especially since I'm in the accessories business. I started by dressing up the outside with chrome accents from Chrome Effects. Upper mirror and handle covers help tie those chrome bumpers together with the sides. A new locking tailgate handle for security with a chrome cover as well dresses up the back. Of coarse I need a shell to protect and keep my supplies in. Lou at Arizona Truck Outfitters hooked me up with an ARE shell with Windoors. An alarm with remote start to protect all of it went in next. Power door locks were added for convenience and security. Jerry from Sweet Window Tinting wrapped my glass with Lumar film to keep me cool and for looks.

    After using my Isuzu for 20 years I had a pretty good setup for my supplies. So I figured a duplicate setup with a few minor changes were in order. Off to Home Depot to get several sheets of furniture grade birch plywood. These were used to make a platform shelf as well as drawers for some of my supplies.

Power Window Mod

Here is my write up on the power window install. First I ordered a set of replacement motors and guides from A1 Electric. They cost only $220 for the pair. The switches, wiring and relays added about another $75.

You will need a small flat blade screwdriver, a 10mm socket with extension, needle nose pliers, panel popper, tape (or a friend) and some electrical knowledge.

First step is to remove the door panels. There are 2 small covers that need to be popped out to expose screws. One behind the door pull and one behind the door handle. Carefully pry out with a small screwdriver and remove the screws. Remove the lock tab by popping the little square tab and lifting straight up. Next remove the window crank handle by sliding the horseshoe clip out with the small flat blade or handle removal tool (if you have one). Carefully pop the door panel loose by working your way around the outside. This can be done by hand, with a flat blade or a door panel popper. Once loose, rotate the panel so as to see the handle cable still attached to the handle pull. Use the needle nose pliers to pinch the clip holding the cable, pull thru the slot and remove the cable from the handle.

 
After removing the door panels, remove the final screw holding the support bracket and remove the bracket. At this point, run a piece of tape on your glass up and over the doorframe and down the other side to hold the glass in place (or have a friend hold it). Then remove the 3 bolts and 2 nuts holding the manual crank and guides. Loosen the 2 screws that pinch the glass on the slides. Lower the crank to drop it off the glass. Rotate the two guides and remove. On the new unit, loosen the 2 screws on the pinch clamps at this point. Insert the replacement power unit in the reverse manor. Install the five screws to hold the power unit in place. Carefully connect a 12-volt source to the power unit to slide the pinch clamps over the bottom of the window. Carefully tighten the 2 screws. Replace the support bracket (only insert the bottom bolt at this time). At this point your power windows are installed.

Now on to the electrical part of the job. After making a wiring harness with this diagram I mounted the relays under the dash by the steering column. Then ran each side through the door loom and then to the window motor and switch location. Wire tie the strand out of the way of any moving parts.

After the regulators and glass are back in place, the next step is to install the switches in the door panel. I had no desire to replace my door panels with the panels from a power version, so I found some momentary (on) off (on) switches. I cut the holes in the panels in front of the grab bar and connected the wires. I will be printing legends to place on top of the switch for easy recognition. Now my doors are fully powered. I will be covering the crank hole with an inset panel when I install my leather interior.

Suspension

Even though it is only a 2 wheel drive the truck sat a little high to work out of. So down it has to go. I started with MaGaughys 2" drop spindles. This in combination with the weight makes the truck sit at a nice level. It would be nicer if it were a little lower, but that will be done in the future. I also black out the rear wheel wells to kill all the white and to provide some debris protection.

Dual Battery

To help keep up with my electrical needs (stereo, computer, inverter, etc.) I installed a dual battery system with the greatest of ease. Thankfully GM already has everything set up for it. A second tray and connection point makes this add on a cinch. With the purchase of an appropriate battery and an OEM battery hold down from Royal GMC, all that was left was the connection. The fuse compartment has a hot stud that runs straight thru the unit which connects to the original battery on the other side.

Send mail to james@jamesdeancreations.com with questions or comments about this web site.    
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